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RE: Average liftime of Class C, what can I reasonably expect?
Well,
my RV is an 84, with 46K miles on her and runs strong. Just had a tuneup, hoping to get to 8 MPG soon. One day maybe. I take great care of it with frequent washing and use of wax or polycoat protectant. Everything works wonderfully. I would imagine I can get another 5 years with ease, but may sell to a family wanting to start out in the life. I stick to stat eparks in Virginia for now, will be out over Thanksgiving with little girl and old dog. Living a dream, I am blessed.
Steve
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Amberbunny
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11/26/08 04:04pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Latest generator problem
Hey Grilmeister! Long time no chat. You and I have the same unit entirely. We just live in parallel universes, never using the RV simultaneously! I am not mechanically inclined, but was going to look inot a rebuild kit . . . until I saw the exploded diagram in the manual. Hooeee. Onan quoted $187.00 for the new carb, special order. I am guess an hours labor, maybe 1.5 so it should get done for $300. Of course if it is only a couple of bolts . . .I may still try it myself. But then I might as well do the plugs and pump and filters as well, so I will give it to them for a week.
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Amberbunny
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12/16/07 08:34pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Lippert Slide out system, updated, found problem!
Good luck! I own property out there in San Luis valley. 5 acres just waiting to be discovered as a gold mine (You too can own property in Colorado . . .or so went the brochure)
Anyway, when I spoke of rails I was thinking of the chassis of the whole unit. My office mate has a unit on a Lippert frame and the I beams are just falling apart. Looks like the metal was contaminated or something. It is literally falling apart. The metal is just separating. Several big name manufacturers are based on these frames. I'm hoping the pull of these companies can assist in getting them to make it right. Don't know if a welding machine overheated metal and made it brittle or what . . .but it is amazing to see in person.
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Amberbunny
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12/16/07 08:27pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Engine Oil
Fascinating info. I'm still confused why straight 30 weight is good to 100 degrees ambient temperture for my generator, and 10w-30 is only good to 80 degres ambient temperature. Clearly, 10-30 does not perform as a full 30 weight at operating temperature. I like the post about older manuals talking to the state of the art knowledge on lubrication and engine design at that time . . .but much has changed and lots has been learned. My manual for my 8 cylinder Chevy MH engine states 10-30, and warns against 10-40. Much caution is given to NOT use it. I would assume in 1984 the tolerances would not allow for it. But I wonder . . . 23 years, 47K miles later has there been enough wear and tear, loosening of parts that a 10-40 would perform better in summer? I'm guessing that it would, but running 10-30 in heat of summer for many hours in 98 degrees . . . oil seemed to hold up fine, no loss of pressure or any excess consumption. If I start to see consumption I may move up a notch in thickness. I do not understand the chart one guy posted about oil being stiffer at start up. Heck, 10-30 oil flows like water, 5 seems to flow that much faster as I put it in the engine, and 0W-30 that I used while living in Wyoming . . .just poured so fast I always made a mess.
The argumen that having any oil, of any weight at a friction spot until more oil flows . . . just makes sense. So multi grade oil seems to make sense. But in higher heat I will use a straight 30. Why? Because the manual says so.
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Amberbunny
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12/16/07 08:19pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: No oil filter?
Interesting. My 84 Onan 4kw genny has a filter. Manual shows a fuel filter . . . but there very clearly isn't one actually ON my generator. Hence, my trip to see Mr Onan in Chesapeak shortly. Seems my carb failed and forcefilled my oil with gas. Started smoking like crazy . .. lucky for me no fire.
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Amberbunny
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12/15/07 07:45pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Furnace pilot light
Shoot, even my 84 Jamboree is DI. My oven as a pilot light though. I find that odd and think modern RV's wouldn't ever have pilot lights. Anywhere. Growing up it was normal. Now? unsafe, some work, some don't. And that maloderant? Whew!
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Amberbunny
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12/15/07 07:37pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Fresh water drain petcock
Well, yeah that would seem to work nicely too, and leave a finished spot on the side as well where it was. Never thought about letting it hang, but I don't see a downside there, long as it is there when i need it.
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Amberbunny
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12/15/07 07:31pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Dometic cooling unit, now on my third in 15 months
Wow. Fridge on my unit is 24 years old, works like a champ, which is more than I can say about my brother in law. Now if my oven and generator would work as well i would be in camper heaven. I guess we all get the parts that are good, and a dose of parts . . .not so much.
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Amberbunny
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12/15/07 06:53pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Anyone added aftermarket remote door locking?
Actually Lowes sells the battery operated, remote control deadbolts. Designed for a house for sure, but it can be installed on an RV. My wife the handly lady installed ours iN Charelston on our house. We had a keychain remote control just like the car doohicky and it was reat for having an armload of groceries as you approached the house. Press button and hte noisy contraption unlocked. Never failed, batteries lasted well over 2 years. Then we sold house.
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Amberbunny
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12/15/07 06:50pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Oven Pilot Light Problem
You can rig up a thin, stiff pipe cleaner or wire and "ram" the line a bit to see if it is blocked. I too had an anemic pilot light and it was actually because the wrong thermocouple was forced onto the stove. Had it rpelaced, and this one isn't doing very well either. Now it turns on and won't adjust for temperature . . .and leaks propane. Let me tell you that maloderant theyuse is awful, but it does the trick. I thought I had tank issues, but it was clearly over related. i was sniffing all over my unit, to include the tank yucky as that sounds. Sniffed oven and bingo! that was it. Seems my pilot seaps a littl epuff of propane every few minutes, even with oven and pilot "off" More work for me.
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Amberbunny
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12/15/07 06:47pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold takes long time to light.
I use the "light stove first" method when the unit has been sitting. Propane does not move under very heavy pressure. It has to push all the air out of the way first. Matter of fact when it sits a long time . . .You can see the stuff coming out of stove burner is trying to light off, but it is mainly air in the lines. Once the air is out, propane burns wonderfully. Some times I really need to do this, and light fridge before I can light off my hw heater. That is the slow one in my unit. Just takes forevor to get propane all the way back there. But you may very well have a leak somewhere letting in more air than is normal. Have a pressure test done.
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Amberbunny
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12/15/07 06:42pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Back-up monitor & camera upgrade?
Folks, COSTCO in California (but not in Virgia) has wireless full color back up camera packages for $79. Didn't think to check how far it transmits, as I was thinking "car" not RV at the time. If it will "go" as far as your RV is long . . .I'm thinking $79 is hard to beat. May even buy one to stick in the wreath at the front door . . .if I don't want to see my visitors . . .hmmm, not a bad idea.
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Amberbunny
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12/15/07 06:12pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Latest generator problem
Okay specifics on generator are as follows. Onan, Emerald plus BGE generator. 4KW, 60 Hz. Model 4bgefa26100H. A close inspection around the carb shows what appears to be leaking gas. I think thi smeans the bowl did get overfilled and force its way into the oil. What is very interesting though . . . I am looking at the manual, and looking at my unit. Where they say a fuel filter is, and it shows on the picture . . .well, there isn't a fuel filter on mine and it connects direct to the carb (fuel line). Maybe a modification handled later . . .could be bad previous owner just not replacing it. I am fortunate that I live only a few miles from Onan in Chesapeake Virginia. I will drive on over there and talk shop to the technicians a bit and probably get a new carb and fuel filter while at it, along with a basic tune-up of new plugs, filters, oil, etc.
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Amberbunny
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12/15/07 06:04pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Woke up to full shower and soaked camper
Great info all. You are right. Had I used my fw tank, the pump cycling on and off would have caught my attention. Here on out I will use pump and tank at night. Thanks so much!
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Amberbunny
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12/15/07 05:46pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Lippert Slide out system, updated, found problem!
Blanca Colorado? Anywhere near Blanca Peak? Holy mackeral you are out in the boonies for sure. Cold, windy, snowy . . . while you are under there check out the condition of your Lippert frame rails. They are having MAJOR issues right now with them cracking and shearing off within the I beams. Look at the area where you are shackled to the axles.
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Amberbunny
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12/15/07 05:31pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Engine Oil
Only thing I can't understand . . . look at any chart showing temperatures and proper oil weights. Straight 30 weight does not show the same protection as a 10w-30. I have been told that it isn't as simple as saying 10w-30 becomes 30 weight at full operating temperature. The charts themselves seem to bear that out. My rebuilt 74 VW bug charts recommends a 10w-30 or a straight 30 in winter. My VW champ engine guy of 42 years . . . he says 20w-50 is best. Year round. 20W would flow better when it is near freezing (about all it gets in southern Virginia), and as it warms up after about 10 miles (they do take forevor to heat up) it is much closer to the 50 weight. Truthfully I am guessing it may get up to 30 weight, possibly 40 weight if I am on the freeway . . .but I doubt I will get it to 50 weight if ambient temps are in the 20's. I will find out within a few weeks if my engine will turn over at 30 weight straight.
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Amberbunny
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12/15/07 05:26pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Black Water tank problem
Maybe they have battery operated back tanks? Rich folks will buy anything. Just kidding! I believe the suggestion there was sulpher being vented from batteis that were boiling dry. That is quite the smell of devil and death, perhaps mistaken for black tank odor. My guess would be for the blocked vent pipe first. This causes horrendous sewer gas to come up through the toilet. If there were a lot of solids, low water over a couple of days or trips it could truly be caked with, uh, stuff. I would use the mild and effective Geo method. Fill it to the brim and let it sit for several days. This will gently loosen the sludge and liquify it. Once it rehydrates everything in the tank and breaks it down, then he needs to drain and make sure the solids are exiting the tank. Perhaps he is letting the liquids drain out but not the solids, causing an immense back up of . . . human cement. Over use of chemicals at this point will cause chemical reactions. I once mixed bleach and ammonia at a restaurant I worked at. Instantaneous mucus removing eye watering body gagging Tear gas of the worst kind. I easily could have killed myself and others if my manager wasn't there to rinse it down the drain with large amounts of water. This stuff was at a roiling boil in the mop bucket, producing smoke as well. I'm betting a draining of the tank, refilling and long soaking will soften up whatever is in there . .. but something might be blocking the exit of the tank: tampon? bar of soap ? cell phone? wad of keys on key chain? Many things can fit down there.
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Amberbunny
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12/12/07 08:32pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Buying a Class C motorhome
My 84 Jamboree Ralley is wonderfully well constructed. I paid 9K 3 years ago and have done very little to it. Minor oven repair (since gone bad), freshwater petcock, carb adjustment on engine, and I am probably going to have to replace the carb on my generator. Otherwise, everything works, and works well. The very best units that have been abused are no better than the lower echelon models that are well cared for. The underpinnings are almost all the same. You can upgrade and replace interiors with new curtains and cushion covers. Works wonders for freshening. But steer clear fo any with water leaks and stink. Tires get replaced at 5 years, period.
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Amberbunny
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12/12/07 08:20pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Fresh water drain petcock
Yup I got the same piece of junk petcock. Went through sall the trouble of replacing it with a brand new one . . . that leaked worse than the UV ate up one. I bought but have not yet installed my new brass valve that just looks cool. It was suggested to me to use one of those foam squishy ear plugs in it if it keeps leaking. Dripping water is amazing at producing volumes of water. I can drain a 40 gallon tank in what seems to be a few short hours.
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Amberbunny
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12/12/07 08:15pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Has any body used NationalMultiList.com to sell their RV?
I used RVSearch.com to sell the last 2 Class B's my Mom owned. She is one step away from full timing and is a dedicated Snow bird now. I liked the staff and boss of the operation very much. He is very responsive to a complaint. I did have an issue with a staffer who deleted my advertisement, made no effort to contact me, and was arrogant enough to tell me it was my fault as my credit card renewal didn't go through. So I lost 8 weeks. But the boss made it right. Multilist pestered me almost day and night to move my ad to their conglomeration of sites. No site picture on how successful they are. They kept ignoring my comments about not wanting to post with them, and they kept trying to get enough info to build a sample advertisement. It was a pain. I judge a business by the responsiveness of the employees. Period. I'm sticking with RVSearch. I know they generate leads consistently, and 2 sales. Plus setting up a transfer with Escrow.com worked wonderfully. Mom is protected, buyer is protected.
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Amberbunny
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12/12/07 08:08pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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